Although still a relatively recent phenomenon, the concept of a
'second wine' in Bordeaux is nevertheless now firmly established. With
the astronomical sums being demanded for the region's top classed
growths, the second wine really does make sense: invariably, these are
wines with an earlier drinking window, perhaps crafted from younger
vines or using a higher percentage of Merlot, and which spend less time
in oak and are consequently lighter in style. In short, the second wine
should offer the consumer a taste of the estate's showpiece offering,
without burning too much of a hole in the pocket.The real sweet spot is to be found in the top vintages, as displayed so majestically here with La Réserve de Léoville Barton 2010. The wine is a composition from Bartons Léoville and Langoa (2nd and 3rd growths respectively) which occupy prime locations in Bordeaux's St Julien sub-region. For context, you'd be hard pushed to find either of the estates' top offerings from 2010 at less than £100 a bottle. On the nose, the complexity of La Réserve is immediately appreciable: blackcurrant, smoke, cedar, cream and currant arise from the glorious deep liquid. The palate, as with St Julien wines in general, is framed by prominent tannins, which effortlessly balance out with the wine's body, alcohol and acidity. The finish is something to behold too - incredible length laced with savoury spices; the sure sign of a great, great wine.
Tom's Rating: Wow. It's really quite hard to express the sheer quality of this wine in words. Will continue to reward patient owners over the next decade and more.
Available at: various, £30
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