60 Second Wine Reviews: Grati Rosso di Toscana 1997

Located in Central Italy on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Tuscany is a region like no other. Famed for its culture, its gastronomy and - of course - its wine, Tuscany is a stunningly beautiful area which should be of great interest to any oenophile worth their salt. It is also a region of contradictions: where regionality lives yet where one grape variety reigns; where heritage and tradition are prized but where subverting the orthodoxy is hugely rewarded.

Perhaps the clearest example of the last point is the birth of the 'Super Tuscan': a wine movement of the 1970s and 80s where rebellious winemakers vinified wines from French varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, alongside the local Sangiovese grape. These wines quickly gained international acclaim (which still holds today), leading to the ludicrous scenario where Tuscany's most revered and expensive wines could only be labelled as mere Vino da Tavola, the lowest designation for Italian 'table wines'.

Fortunately this farcical loophole has since been resolved, and now a myriad of labelling terms exist for producers of Tuscan wine, be they traditionalist or pioneering. In the former camp are the Grati family, who own vineyards across the region. Their Rosso di Toscana from 1997 is a blend dominated by Sangiovese, with a couple of local varieties playing the supporting role. Pale ruby-coloured in glass, the wine possesses enchanting, creeping aromas of glacé cherry, cider apples, leather and forest leaves. Despite entering its third decade of existence, the wine is remarkably fresh: its raspy acidity and lively tannins a testament to the longevity of Sangiovese. Well-balanced and with a slight iodine saltiness on the palate, Grati's 1997 represents a dignified and refined style of Tuscan red, with plenty more to give in the coming years.

Tom's Rating: A lovely, mature, gastronomic Sangiovese which sticks two fingers up to modernist rivals.

Available at: Majestic Wine, £20-£25