60 Second Wine Reviews: Grati Rosso di Toscana 1997

Located in Central Italy on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Tuscany is a region like no other. Famed for its culture, its gastronomy and - of course - its wine, Tuscany is a stunningly beautiful area which should be of great interest to any oenophile worth their salt. It is also a region of contradictions: where regionality lives yet where one grape variety reigns; where heritage and tradition are prized but where subverting the orthodoxy is hugely rewarded.

Perhaps the clearest example of the last point is the birth of the 'Super Tuscan': a wine movement of the 1970s and 80s where rebellious winemakers vinified wines from French varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, alongside the local Sangiovese grape. These wines quickly gained international acclaim (which still holds today), leading to the ludicrous scenario where Tuscany's most revered and expensive wines could only be labelled as mere Vino da Tavola, the lowest designation for Italian 'table wines'.

Fortunately this farcical loophole has since been resolved, and now a myriad of labelling terms exist for producers of Tuscan wine, be they traditionalist or pioneering. In the former camp are the Grati family, who own vineyards across the region. Their Rosso di Toscana from 1997 is a blend dominated by Sangiovese, with a couple of local varieties playing the supporting role. Pale ruby-coloured in glass, the wine possesses enchanting, creeping aromas of glacé cherry, cider apples, leather and forest leaves. Despite entering its third decade of existence, the wine is remarkably fresh: its raspy acidity and lively tannins a testament to the longevity of Sangiovese. Well-balanced and with a slight iodine saltiness on the palate, Grati's 1997 represents a dignified and refined style of Tuscan red, with plenty more to give in the coming years.

Tom's Rating: A lovely, mature, gastronomic Sangiovese which sticks two fingers up to modernist rivals.

Available at: Majestic Wine, £20-£25

60 Second Wine Reviews: Château Haut-Milon 2008

Situated in-between the legendary Rothschild estates of Lafite and Mouton, Château Haut-Milon is understandably overshadowed. It does, however, mean that this wine represents something very rare in Pauillac: value for money.

That's not to say that you're getting a poor quality wine; far from it. From a solid if not outstanding 2008 vintage, the Ch Haut-Milon displays everything Claret fans love about the style, and then some. A limpid ruby colour in glass, the wine reveals layers of fragrant blackcurrant and cedar on the nose, which follow through on the palate. The wine is well-balanced, almost dainty and light, with its slightly green, stalky tannins adding interest. A classic Pauillac that's drinking well now, and which will certainly provide enjoyment with future evolution.

Tom's Rating: A classic, understated wine from a region where low prices are rare. Will age comfortably too

Available at: Majestic Wine, £15-£20