Thursday 5 February 2015

Winter warmers

Those of you, like myself, with some sort of asthma were probably able to foretell the impending freezing temperatures to which we have been subjected in recent weeks. The increasing tightening of lungs and bronchial tubing and the sudden inability to walk 50 yards without gasping for air like it's going out of style are just a couple of the omens that indicate to the weak-chested among us that Jack Frost is well on his way. Cold temperatures do funny things to others as well: in my household particularly, the weather forecasts appear on screen with such regularity that I become on first name terms with multiple presenters, and spades and bags of salt start mysteriously appearing on the driveway. And that's not to mention the sheer dread that appears on my mum's face with the mere utterance of the word 'snow' (although it is very useful to know one of her potential weaknesses in the event that she is exposed to nuclear radiation and becomes a bloodthirsty despot). But that aside, for all the traffic reports and gritter lorries in the world, sometimes it's just best to stay wrapped up indoors and cosy up with a nice glass or two by the fire. And this week, I've selected a couple of bottles that should do just the trick- a comforting red from Languedoc and a zippy Galician white.


Although we think of the south of France as a sun-drenched utopia of warm temperatures and beautiful weather, its wines often have a canny knack of matching quite well to warming casseroles and stews, which makes them perfect fare for the British winter. The first wine I have chosen is from a small Languedoc appellation called Saint-Chinian (a "hidden gem of the South" according to 'The Wine Pocket Bible'): Tesco Finest Saint-Chinian 2013. Currently on offer at £5.99, this rustic red united the critics: for Victoria Moore in the Telegraph, the wine represented "a very cosy red, mellow and brambly" (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/11121403/Perfect-autumn-wines-for-cosy-nights-in.html); while Jane MacQuitty in the Times wrote of a "cracking, stomach lining spicy winter wine brimming with rich, herby, dusky earthy fruit". Olly Smith echoed the comments on fruit and herbaceousness in the Daily Mail (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/event/article-2814460/OLLY-SMITH-Nights-drawing-weather-turning-frosty-uncork-central-heating-soul.html) whereas Ned Halley noted the wine's gentle oak treatment and adherence to Saint-Chinian terroir (http://www.westerndailypress.co.uk/Wine-St-Chinian-s-robust-reds-finally-arrived/story-23252163-detail/story.html).

Like the critics above, I was also taken in by the wine's charms. The inky purple hue and typical nose of liquorous blackcurrant and hedgerow fruits betray the wine's southern French origins, yet the wine is somewhat restrained in style and not as rustic as some. On the palate are mature blackcurrant and blackberry fruits coupled with a medium body and a smooth mouthfeel (although some might find it to be a little lacking in tannic backbone). On the whole, Tesco and its producer Skalli have done a good job at creating an elegant Grenache-Syrah blend in what was a difficult vintage in the Midi, and one which will satisfy those looking for a hearty winter red. Tesco advises that the wine might be cellared for up to three years, and it would certainly be interesting to see how the wine develops in time for winter 2016.


The second wine I have chosen is another corker from Tesco, this time their Finest Pazo Das Donas Godello 2012, also currently at £5.99. Admittedly, a Spanish white might not be top of your list for a comforting winter tipple, but this example is fresh, vibrant and zingy, and will do wonders for reawakening your slumbering tastebuds. In his informative piece on the vintage (http://winereviewsbyivorfan.com/2014/07/27/finest-pazo-das-donas-godello-2012/), wine blogger Dave Cronin talks about the grape's capacity to produce wines of intense flavour and aroma, specifically finding "ripe peaches, lemons, spiced apples" in Tesco's offering. Cronin also advises that the wine not be drunk overly-chilled as a lower temperature masks much of the wine's aromatics and flavour, something which I would second after tasting.

As something of a novice to Spain's indigenous white varieties, I must say that I found the wine to be an intriguing and uplifting experience. The delicate pale gold hue beguiles the intense, zippy nose of green apples and gooseberry, which leads into a medium-bodied refreshing wine. The fruits are pitched at the sharp, tart end of the spectrum (think Granny Smiths) coupled with a bit of delicate white hibiscus and an attractive saline quality. For a food match, anything caught from Spain's north Atlantic coast would be delightful, although I can help thinking that a roasted joint of gammon would also work a treat. In short, whether you plump for a reassuring red or a winning white to chase away your winter woes, you won't go far wrong with either of these great value warmers. Cheers!
    

4 comments:

  1. Hi Tom,
    Thanks for the link on the Godello.
    Godello in it's various forms has become a favourite of mine,discovering it whilst touring Northern Spain a few years ago around the Bierzo region. I find it differs a lot from bottle to bottle from being crisp fruity and zesty to almost Burgundian with oak and creaminess,
    I love both styles, lets hope more people get to hear about it, they may be surprised how good it is.

    Salud
    Dave (aka ivorfan & spikedc)

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dave,

      Thanks very much for reading my blog, and for the use of your previous posting on Godello. It was certainly a positive experience to sample Tesco's offering, and it was the type of bottle that made me rue the fact I hadn't tried the grape sooner! You mention the different styles available - is there a Godello of the oakier/creamier ilk on sale in the UK shops which you could recommend? My only slight criticism of Tesco's Pazo Das Donas was the rather austere finish.

      Many thanks for reading, happy drinking!

      Tom

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    2. Hi Tom,
      The oakier style Godellos I've tried tend to be Spanish bottles and a little on the pricey side.
      I brought a few back, see my review....http://winereviewsbyivorfan.com/2015/01/26/godello-the-great-white-spanish-hope/
      The Co op are doing an offer atm on their Truly Irresistable range called the 'Godello Ondas Del Alma 2013' as is pretty good for £5 (slightly floral).....http://winereviewsbyivorfan.com/2015/01/26/godello-the-great-white-spanish-hope/.
      Check out Majestic they do Godello as well.
      If you search for oaked Godello you'll find there are a few here but again tend to be a litttle expensive.

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    3. Hi Dave,

      Thanks very much for the tip - I'll let you know how I get on when I next visit the Co-op!

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