Saturday 21 February 2015

Rockin' Roussillon

First off, apologies for the lack of blogging recently - I was fortunate enough to take a Valentine's getaway break with my better half and have therefore spent some welcome time away from the draws of modern technology. We spent a lovely relaxing long weekend in the charming village of Seahouses in Northumberland, which is perfect for anyone wishing to escape the city walls in search of rural living, sea air and the odd seal or two! (www.seahouses.org) Coincidentally, on the big night itself we shared a cracking bottle of Veuve Monsigny Brut NV (£9.99, Aldi) which more than lived up to its critical hype; although her disbelieving remarks ("You've not actually bought proper Champagne, have you"?) should give you some idea as to how much of a tightwad I normally am. Nevertheless, it was a well-balanced wine with good structure and a creamy mousse, and an utter pleasure to drink on the most romantic of dates in the calendar.

But I digress. As we move away from the season of fizz and rosé, it is time to consider some solid options for the rapidly-approaching springtime. It's at this time of year where I like to start drinking red wines that put me in mind of warmer days to come - think brambly Garnachas, smooth Tempranillos and volcanic Nero d'Avolas. One of my favourite wine regions to visit for summery reds is Roussillon in Southern France. Often lumped together (unfairly, in my view) with its northern sibling Languedoc, Roussillon is really more Catalan than French in terms of its origins, food and culture, and the Grenache-based regional blends reflect the area's unique nature. With over 22,000 hectares of land given over to viticulture in Roussillon, with Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre being the star grapes, France's Catalan region really is the place to go for good-value, hearty summer reds.


Without question, the wine that I've selected to review today certainly ticks all the right boxes. Priced at £6.66 at Majestic, the Château de Triniac Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011 is both a fantastic value bottle, as well as a slightly different alternative to the region's usual offerings. Côtes du Roussillon Villages is Roussillon's northernmost appellation, and slightly more selective than the larger Côtes du Roussillon, with a permitted blend of maximum 60% Carignan, a minimum of 30% Syrah/Mourvèdre, as well as Grenache. The Château de Triniac in fact originates from Latour de France: only one of four villages permitted to add their name onto the CdRV appellation. The village is recognised as being the origin of higher quality wines from the region, with the vines which grow along the valley slopes of the Agly River benefitting from heat-retaining granite soils and an average of 325 days of sunshine per year.

With 2011 generally accepted as being a good vintage for Roussillon reds, the wine had a lot to live up to. Certainly the critics seemed to love it, with Ned Halley scoring the wine top marks in his 2014 edition of 'The Best Wines in the Supermarkets'. Describing Château de Triniac as "theatrically rich and opulent", Halley went on to comment on its "gorgeous limpid spicy-garrigue black fruits and surpassing sleekness". Although I can't quite agree with his remarks on opulence (I found myself yearning for more texture), I can confidently attest to the wine's sleekness: you'd never guess it at 14.5% alcohol. The Independent's critic Terry Kirby was also taken by the wine, calling it a "spicy and satisfying" red which "punches way above its price range" (http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/features/wines-of-the-week-marques-de-casa-concha-cabernet-sauvignon-2010-verdicchio-dei-castelli-di-jesi-classico-2012-chteau-de-triniac-cotes-du-roussillon-villages-2011-8646591.html).

Certainly, I found the wine to be an excellent example of what Roussillon can really produce. Dark clarety-red in colour and with a nose of red berries, new leather and a slight sweetness, the wine went down very easily with no alcohol burn or unwelcome tannic bite. The red fruits on the nose are consistent with the palate, where they are joined by a sprinkling of black pepper and an alluring creamy note on the finish. Although I found slight fault with the linear texture and short finish, I was nevertheless impressed by the wine's poise and elegance, and could think of no better word than 'breezy' to describe the sensation of drinking a quality wine with grapes grown at an altitude of 300m. Make no mistake: this is not your average rustic Roussillon red, but a wine of serious charm and aspiration. For my money, the wine would pair best with roast venison or game, but I couldn't blame you for sipping it on its own outside in your back garden, watching the fading sun and dreaming of warmer days to come. So here's to a cracker from French Catalonia: salut!

2 comments:

  1. Hi Tom
    Nice reviews,like the sound of the Roussillon unfortunately our local Majestic only stocks a couple (not the bottle you reviewed), one 2011 and a 2012, the latter gets gets good reviews as for the 2011, no reviews yet.
    I am going to Calais for a weekend in April with some wine buddies will check out the Majestic there, looking forward to returning with a boot full of cheap good wine.
    Heard a lot of good things recently about wines at Aldi, may well have to check out the nearest store soon, well, when I say nearest it's still 7 or 8 miles away in Hemel

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dave,

      Thanks very much for reading! I'm sorry to hear the selection at your local Majestic is a little sparse - my store in Milton Keynes always seems to be quite good with Southern France (they currently stock the Chateau de Triniac I reviewed if you fancy a short trip up the M1)! Otherwise, anything from 2010, 2009 and 2007 is worth looking at from the region.

      Interested to hear your thoughts on Aldi - I'm a big fan of their bargain basement bottles, although quite how they manage it under UK tax laws continues to baffle me. I must admit I''m not particularly au fait with their premium offerings, The Exquisite Collection, so I'd love to hear any thoughts you have on the range?

      I look forward to reading about your sortie to Calais! Best regards

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