From Cumbria with love

Recently, as part of a tie-up between my employer and The Lakes Distillery, I was very kindly invited to spend the weekend up in Cumbria visiting the aforementioned producers, to indulge in a spot of - ahem - thorough research. Myself and Mrs TomOnWine were to stay in an idyllic riverside hotel on the banks of the River Derwent, from where we would spend time exploring the distillery and its highly-rated restaurant, as well as taking in some of the beautiful Cumbrian scenery. There are very few things that cause Mrs TomOnWine to awaken early on a Saturday morning, but with the prospect of free gin tasting in the offing, we began our journey up to the northernmost tip of England's largest National Park.

Looking east across Bassenthwaite Lake

Arriving in the Lake District, we were taken to our accommodation for the weekend - the luxurious and welcoming Trout Hotel in the small town of Cockermouth (www.trouthotel.co.uk). The hotel, which was awarded 4 stars by The AA and Visit Britain in 2009, sits on the banks of the River Derwent - the same river that provides the water for spirit production at The Lakes Distillery. After checking in, we took the short ten minute car ride to visit the main attraction (www.lakesdistillery.com). Situated at the north-western point of Lake Bassenthwaite, the distillery itself is a bijou enterprise, comprising of a few small constructs renovated from farm buildings dating back to the Victorian times. Aside from the modern bistro and visitor gift shop, of primary interest was the structure which housed the distillery itself, where the whiskies, gins and vodkas are lovingly crafted and matured.

Led by our knowledgeable and amiable tour guide Mike, we were taken inside the heart of the distillery and given a fascinating glimpse into the production methods of top quality spirits. As previously mentioned, the majestic River Derwent is the source of the distillery's water supplies, and it was emphasised by Mike how proud the company is of showcasing one of Cumbria's most important assets in their products, as well as the quality and purity that the river water brings to the final spirit. We were shown the copper stills and other equipment used in the production of The Lakes' spirits, and even allowed to set foot inside their bonded warehouse, where various incarnations of their whiskies sat maturing in an impressive array of oak barrels, including those used in the production of Bourbon and Sherry. Unfortunately I was unable to capture much of this on camera: partially due to secrecy, however mainly to do with my distraction and delight at being surrounded by such glorious and intoxicating sights and smells.

Mike in full flow

Following the distillery tour, we were invited into the tasting room where we sampled three of the Lakes Distillery's current commercially-available offerings: The Lakes Gin, Vodka and Blended Whisky. Below are my brief tasting notes on the trio:

-While the company waits for its Holy Grail and flagship single malt to mature, The One Whisky isn't a bad substitute to fill the void. A reference to the blend of whiskies from across the United Kingdom's four nations, The One Whisky is a clean and linear spirit, with attractive smoky notes. Its peaty character betrays its provenance: over 70% of the blend is made from high quality single malts.
-Probably the distillery's most popular product, The Lakes Gin offers all the character required to satisfy the modern gin drinker's palate. Fresh, fragrant and pure, the gin is dominated by citrus peel, juniper and dried herbs, and requires but a splash of tonic to showcase its full potential.
-With vodka fast becoming a retro choice, The Lakes Vodka reminds us how good the spirit can be if afforded the necessary care and attention. Ghostly in its purity and silky smooth from extended copper contact, the vodka can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or as an excellent base for a Vesper cocktail.

The Lakes Gin, Whisky & Vodka

Tasting Room

Hard at work

After an arduous tasting session, our appetites were fully whetted to enjoy the offerings of The Lakes' restaurant - stylised as 'Bistro at the Distillery'. The menus are contemporary British, with some real stand out gems available (the Farmhouse Cheese and Spinach Soufflé being highly recommendable; so too the rib-eye steak). Equally pleasing is the impressive wine list, which is varied and reasonably priced. Those which caught my eye included England's premier sparkling wine Nyetimber (available by the glass and bottle), and back vintages of a pair of well-regarded Left Bank Clarets - Châteaux Batailley and Léoville-Barton. All of the distillery's own offerings are, of course, available too.

The desserts and cocktails weren't too shabby either

It is always with a tinge of sadness that one returns from a relaxing getaway back to the daily grind, and our trip to Cumbria was no different. Both myself and Mrs TomOnWine experienced a thoroughly enjoyable time in the beautiful Cumbrian countryside: a part of the world that we hadn't previously visited, but one to which we would return in an instant. It was also fantastic to catch a glimpse into the exciting world of spirit production at The Lakes Distillery, and I'm sure that their business will continue to flourish. Certainly from the reaction I gauged from fellow visitors, as well as the general trend of increasing popularity of local artisan produce in the UK, there is no reason why the company shouldn't become an institution in itself. It was certainly refreshing to see a dedicated group of people craft produce that both utilises and is reflective of the natural resources in their environment. Perhaps new British winemakers should take note: instead of fighting against the weather and orthodox consumer tastes, might it not be better to craft products which are more faithful to our natural climate and geology, as The Lakes have done with their spirits? Without a doubt, the good folks at The Lakes Distillery are ascending rapidly up the path to enduring success. If only my patience in waiting for the release of their single malt was as determined...

All roads lead to Rhône

Okay, I'll start off with a confession. It's now mid-July, and yet I've barely touched a drop of white wine this year. Ordinarily, I'd be lapping up Sancerre and goat's cheese by the saucerful, or drinking copious amounts of Picpoul like it's going out of style. Occasionally, if I get really desperate, I might even sneak in a glass or two of Pinot Grigio as the sun's rays beat down on my shoulders, before seeing the error of my ways and repenting for my wine sins for the remainder of the day. What little space remains in my fridge is given over to an ancillary army of Sauvignons, Viogniers and Chardonnays, all ready to refresh and delight at the pull of a cork. But, alas, the terrible weather this Summer has conspired against my white wine habits, and thus oddly I find myself writing about my default choice of heavier reds, most recently Claret and presently Rhône.

In itself, drinking more wines from France's Rhône valley is no bad thing; I for one am certainly guilty of overlooking the vast array of wines from that part of the world on the supermarket shelves in search of something a little less mainstream. Yet, to do so means I miss out on some real top quality wines with winemaking know-how and pedigree. One of the Rhône's key points of difference, and also its Achilles heel, is that its basic 'Côtes du Rhône' appellation wines can vary wildly in quality and style. The best producers make excellent use of the region's quality grape varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), either using traditional vinification or Carbonic Maceration as well as being judicious with their use of oak. The worst producers, and they are sadly numerous, produce dilute, thin, overcropped wines which lack any character or sense of place. Thus, although it pains me to hear the words "I don't like Côtes du Rhône", I've tasted enough poor wines to understand why some make such sweeping statements.

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône Villages 2014

Happily, two of the most recent Rhône reds that I've sampled both re-affirmed my faith in the style, coming as they did from two of the region's best names. Both the Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011 (Majestic, £9.99 on offer) and Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Cotes du Rhone Villages 2014, made by Chapoutier (£7 from the supermarket) are well-made, classically flavoured Rhône reds which provide all the warming fruit and spice which is evidently required for the British Summertime.

Let's kick off with the Guigal, arguably the most famous name in the Rhône valley and whose marque is a byword for quality and typicity. In fact, if you ever get the chance to try their Condrieu, do so - it's a deft match for your Christmas turkey. Based at Château d'Ampuis in the Côte Rôtie in Northern Rhône, the House of Guigal is behind some of the region's most fabulously expensive wines, yet they never neglect their lesser appellation wines from both the North and South of the Rhône valley. The care and attention that they invest in their wines is reflected by their Côtes du Rhône's vintage: I'm reviewing the 2011 and their 2012 is currently on the market, whilst most producers are hurrying to release their 2015s. This patience and care to release their wines after extended aging displays confidence in their wines' quality, as well as their determination to offer the wine at its peak drinking time. Unusually for Côtes du Rhône wines (but not necessarily for Guigal) their 2011 is Syrah dominant, in a ratio of 60-35 with Grenache, accompanied by a splash of Mourvèdre at 5%. Always well-received by critics, Decanter magazine recently named Guigal's 2012 in their top 50 Best Value Rhône reds, applauding the wine's "poised and polished" nature.

I would certainly echo those sentiments having tasted the 2011, which I found to have a reassuringly traditional feel. Just starting to show signs of development in glass, the wine is a mid-depth ruby at the core with a garnet rim. On the nose, wonderful yet vaguely restrained aromas of blackcurrant and baked plum come to the fore, with supporting notes of clove and black pepper. The fruits on the palate are classical CdR - more blackcurrants, plums and pepper - with still-lively acidity and tannins that are just ever-so-slightly drying out. The finish is excellent and lingers long on the palate (20 seconds by my count) which only serves to re-inforce the notion that the wine is carefully and lovingly crafted. Overall, with its distinctively 'Old World' nature of understated fruit and classy structure, the Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011 proved to be a highly enjoyable wine and another tick in the box for this ever-reliable producer.

If the Guigal is reined-in and traditional, the Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône Villages is altogether more modern and slinky in style. Made for the UK supermarket by the Chapoutier family, who are based in the village of Tain-l'Hermitage in the Northern Rhône, the wine - much like the Guigal - again comes from a producer of great repute. Maison Chapoutier makes wines at every level of the Rhône's appellation system, and has expanded its horizons further with ventures in Alsace, Roussillon, Portugal and Australia. Their wines are often highly scored by critics, and their 2013 effort for Sainsbury's was lauded as having "wholesome appeal with proper Côtes du Rhône spice and verve" by Ned Halley in 'The Best Wines in the Supermarkets'.

Abstract nouns aside, I cannot help but agree with Halley's comments: the TtD CdRV definitely scores highly in the likeability stakes. With a more upfront nose than the Guigal, the aromas are dominated by a mix of squashy purple fruits and new oak, with just a hint of that Côtes du Rhône black pepper poking through. The palate is medium-bodied and suave, with the tannins and acidity tempered well by the oak influence. The flavours are once again typical for the style, with the well-defined blackcurrant, plum and pepper notes justifying the 'Villages' suffix in the title. The finish lingers nicely, albeit for not as long as the Guigal. A very good match for stews and casseroles, the TtD CdRV is very much made for enjoying now, with the slight lack of fruit concentration denying it much prospect of graceful aging.

After tasting the two wines, I can safely say that both are excellent examples of two different styles of Côtes du Rhône which both excel in displaying their merits. The Guigal appeals if you like traditional, unassuming Old World style reds, and with its early development it could be a canny match for mellow, slow cooked stews; whereas the Chapoutier-made Sainsbury's wine would better suit those whose palates demand riper, fruitier wines, and who are looking for a wine to match more robustly-flavoured dishes. Regardless of your preference, either would succeed in converting those Rhône doubters and both would merit a place in your shopping basket, ready to crack open at any moment during the long, unpredicatble Summer ahead of us.

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P.S. As I'm sitting here writing, the mercury in the West Midlands is pushing 30C. I'll start making room for the whites in the fridge...