Vive la (Gewurztraminer) Révolution!

Due to its sheer popularity and dominance on our supermarket shelves, occasionally I yearn to escape the all-encompassing world of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not that I have anything against New Zealand or indeed the fabulous expressions of the grape it produces – far from it – but sometimes it’s just nice to get away from the norm. If, like me, you hanker after a New Zealand Sauvignon rebellion, then there are very few wines which would be further from than the style than Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Although often likened to one another for their pronounced aromatics (indeed, with typical examples, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc wines should be among the easiest for wine students to pick out in a blind tasting), the similarities stop there: while Sauvignon Blanc produces wines with tropical and citrus aromas and crisp acidity, Gewurztraminer often produces wines which are off-dry, low in acidity and exotically flavoured, with typical nuances of rosewater and lychee. The prefix ‘Gewürz’, after all, means ‘spiced’ or ‘perfumed’ in German.

Another primary difference between the grapes is preferred growing regions. Whereas Sauvignon Blanc can make superb wines in its spiritual home of the Loire Valley and its ‘new classic’ region of Marlborough, as well as other premium cool climate sites in the New World, Gewurztraminer seems to be rather more picky in selecting its growing location. Although decent efforts are made in Germany and the USA, nowhere really beats the French region of Alsace for Gewurztraminer wines of distinction and complexity.

One such Gewurz I tried recently is the Kuhlmann-Platz Gewurztraminer 2013 from Alsace’s first and largest co-operative, Cave de Hunawihr. Elegantly bottled in true Germanic fashion, the wine is actually fairly muted on the nose for Gewurz: hints of citrus fruits and stone fruits emanate from the glass, as well as a touch of ginger spice, but overall the wine is a little reticent on approach. However, this fleeting sense of disappointment is quickly rectified on the palate, where the wine explodes into a symphony of Turkish Delight, rose petal, lychee and honeyed melon; all supported by a comforting blanket of sweetness and sufficient acidity to keep things fresh. As with all medium-dry whites, spiced Asian dishes and soft ripe cheeses work a treat: specifically, I found the Hunawihr Gewurz to be a perfect match to Malaysian Chicken curry.

Although an exuberantly fruity and edgily-different wine, admittedly the Hunawihr Gewurztraminer not one that will tempt Marlborough Sauvignon lovers away from their glasses of Brancott or Villa Maria. For the contemplative wine lover, however, it will succeed in providing a delightful if temporary distraction from New World Sauvignon. My advice is to enjoy a glass now and to savour its lingering, sweetly spiced succulence, before quickly reaching for the bottle of Oyster Bay.

Tom reviews the world's best Chardonnay!... almost

I was recently in the beautiful Lincolnshire market town of Grantham and wandered into a local branch of M&S Food. As all wine addicts will know, the default thing to do when one enters such an establishment is to head straight for the wine section for quick foray. As I was absent-mindedly browsing M&S' (rather impressive) range, my eye was drawn to the bottles of their own-label Mâcon-Villages standing proudly on the top shelf. Remembering that this was the very wine that was recently crowned Decanter magazine's Best Chardonnay Under £15, I promptly bought a bottle to see for myself whether the £10 Mâcon was deserving of the title. On arriving home - much to my annoyance and also slight amusement - it transpired that I had actually bought the 2013 vintage, as opposed to the 2014 which had scooped such high praise. Undeterred in my quest for excellent Chardonnay, I persevered and proceeded to try the wine regardless.

 

And what a wine it was too. Produced for M&S by the Mâcon co-operative Vignerons des Grandes Vignes, the wine is selected and blended from specific cuvées within the Mâcon-Villages appellation. A medium lemon-coloured wine, its aromas were immediately expressive of everything that great Mâcon-Villages should be: crisp citrus tones mingling with stone fruits, coupled with a beautiful florality and minerality. I found the nectarine and white peach notes to be slightly honeyed too, almost reminiscent of a good Chenin, which I put down to the additional year that the wine spent in bottle. On the palate were more pure lemon and peach fruits, joined with a suggestion of green apple. Although unoaked (you can relax now, ABC clan) the wine's mouthfeel was smooth and plush: evidence, I am sure, of malolactic fermentation. The finish, too, was pleasant and lingering, with the mineral flavours remaining on the palate long after the wine's disappearance. 

After cocking up with the vintage, I felt justified in choosing M&S' Mâcon-Villages to taste, as it was a brilliant expression of Mâcon terroir, as well as an excellent ambassador for classic Old World Chardonnay. Not that I was the only person to have enjoyed the wine: writer Ned Halley in 'The Best Wines in the Supermarkets' found the wine to be "lively, leesy and [a] lush authentic regional unoaked Chardonnay". Furthermore, the wine also confirmed my belief about drinking Mâcon-Villages a few years after the vintage. Aside from the basic Mâcon blanc which is best drunk as young as possible, there is no reason why Mâcon-Villages and named village wines can't be enjoyed for up to five years after their conception, as the best will retain their fruit and develop honeyed nuances in the bottle, as I found here. 

 

So although I failed miserably in my efforts to review the world's best sub-£15 Chardonnay, I have managed to stumble across a brilliant little wine which is incredibly hard to fault at a tenner. All that remains now is to try its younger sibling to see how it compares. If it truly is better than the 2013, it promises to be an absolute belter.

Beronia Dos Maderas Reserva review - Tesco Wine

Recently I was fortunate enough to be selected for a Tesco Wine Community Taste Panel for the Beronia 'Dos Maderas' Rioja Reserva 2009. Below is my review of the wine, as well as some thoughts on food matching and aging potential. Enjoy!

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From the small town of Ollauri in the heart of Rioja Alta comes the wine on review today, the Beronia ‘Dos Maderas’ Rioja Reserva 2009. The name Beronia hails from the Celtic tribe who inhabited Northern Spain in the 3^rd century BC, known as the Berones. Yet, despite the name’s ancient origins, the Beronia winery was founded just over 40 years ago, and is therefore still a relative newcomer in the Rioja wine scene. Bodegas Beronia was set up in 1973 by four friends and gastronomic enthusiasts, hoping to make wines in order to pair with their dishes. Today, headed by their chief winemaker Matias Calleja, Beronia is something of a pioneering winery in the region: it was the first bodega in Rioja to market single varietal wines, as well as the first to make use of Dos Maderas (two types of oak) which help give a distinctive and memorable feel to their creations.

The Beronia Reserva 2009 is one such creation. The 2009 growing season was a very good one: although much of Rioja experienced searingly high temperatures in the summer, good rainfall later in the season saved the day and produced a formidable vintage. For their 2009 Reserva, Beronia blended 94% Tempranillo grapes with a dash each of Graciano and Mazuelo, before aging for 20 months in their signature blend of French and American oak barrels. According to Beronia, the French oak imparts spicy aromas to their wines, while the American oak contributes the softer vanilla and coconut nuances.

The wine itself is a medium intensity purpley-ruby colour, with a fairly intense nose of dark fruits and oak-derived flavours: blackcurrant, blackberry and plum mingle happily with nuances of vanilla and toasty cedar. Intriguingly, the nose is not showing as much development as other Reservas I’ve sampled from the same vintage, which points to a long and elegant potential aging period for the Beronia. This initial assumption was swiftly backed up by the wine’s structure: the good levels of tannin and acidity mean that the Beronia could be cellared quite happily for another decade, with earthy, raisined notes sure to follow the supple fruit and vanilla already present.

At the heart of Beronia’s philosophy is the consideration that their wines should always pair well with food, and happily this is indeed the case for the Dos Maderas Reserva. The wine matches perfectly with all types of traditional Spanish fare, including jamón ibérico, manchego, olives and other tapas, but the darker, duskier nature of the fruits mean that the wine would also go well with venison and game dishes. Whether you choose to enjoy it with friends alongside food or simply savour its delights on its own, it is clear that Beronia have succeeded in producing a stunningly good Rioja. ¡Salud!

Keeping it in the family

Okay, hands up - who here remembers the jazz funk stylings of English pop group Level 42 in the 80s and 90s? Silly question, of course you do. For those of you who've had a temporary memory lapse however, here's a video of the band in action at the 2010 Estival Jazz Festival playing their 1987 hit single 'Running in the Family':

(Don't you just love that slap bass?!)

Aside from looking for an excuse to listen to Level 42, I mention this specific track because - as so often happens when one is chewing over a nice glass of red - coincidence and inspiration seem to spring from nowhere. As I was sitting on the sofa listening to Running in the Family and relaxing with a glass of Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Merlot 2013, it occurred to me that the song choice was quite apt. As one of Chile's largest and most established wine producers, Luis Felipe Edwards produces a vast array of wines and styles, ranging from their classic varietal labels to their more premium single vineyard offerings. Their Gran Reserva range, however, is something else: a selection of nine award-winning varietal wines from premium growing areas, the LFE Gran Reservas are not only sold to customers, but are also retained in the family's private cellars for special occasions. After drinking and loving the Merlot (£7.99 from Majestic Wines), I went out the following day and snapped up the Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2014 (same price, same retailer) which was equally, if not more, impressive.

Firstly to the Merlot, which hails from the premium growing region of Colchagua Valley, perhaps better known for its big-hitting Cabernet and Carmenère-based wines. Unlike in Spain, the 'Gran Reserva' designation carries no legal definition in Chile, but LFE use the tag here to denote that the wine has spent a short period of maturation in oak (as well as signifying that the wine is good enough for private cellaring). This Gran Reserva Merlot has spent 12 months in 30% new oak, so although it is a young vintage, the wine has a sense of fullness and tannic integration that you'd expect from a more mature wine. On the nose are notes of plum and blackcurrant, along with a touch of sweet cocoa and wood spice in the background. These flavours largely follow through onto the palate, although the fruits take on a more concentrated, slightly baked edge in the mouth. Medium-bodied with food-friendly acidity and balanced tannins, this is an elevated Chilean Merlot with a real sense of finesse, which at the same time remains faithful to the grape.

Previous readers of my blog will know of my disdain for the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club and its rejection of one of the world's finest and most versatile white grape varieties. Thus, whenever I come across a beautifully full and oaky expression of the grape, my inner wine conscience feels a smug sense of satisfaction at those who miss out on such exquisite wines in the name of ephemeral fashion. Perhaps if the ABC clique had tried skilfully oaked wines like the LFE Gran Reserva Chardonnay, there would be no need for such an unnecessary grouping. Made from grapes grown in the Casablanca Valley - the Chilean cool-climate growing region - this beautifully gold-coloured Chardonnay has spent 3 months in oak barrels, giving subtle notes of creaminess to the wine as well as plumping out the texture. The nose is highly aromatic for a Chardonnay (think mango, passion fruit, melon and cream) which leads onto a welcoming palate of vanilla, butter and more tropical fruits. The palate structure is attractively complex, with the soft, oily mouthfeel concealing the crisp, saline-laced finish and the rather high alcohol content (14% abv). As such, the wine is perfectly suited to all manner of creamy chicken dishes, as well as chasing away hordes of anti-Chardonnay heathens.

So, from Chile's largest family-owned wine producer comes two very good Family Selection wines from a family of nine varietals available. The LFE Gran Reserva Merlot and Chardonnay are great examples of classic Old World grape varieties which have truly found new homes in Chile's up-and-coming premium wine regions. Just don't forget to tell your friends - these wines are too good to be kept solely in the family! ;-)

Fine wine event - May 2015

One of the things I love about my job is that I get to try a wide variety of very good wines from across the globe on a daily basis. The thing I love most, however, are the occasions where I'm able to taste those great wines which make up the modern oenophile's zeitgeist. Yesterday evening was one such occasion, and I've compiled some tasting notes of my top five wines of the evening. If you're feeling flush and fancy a treat, you could do far worse than snapping up one of these excellent wines.

1) Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Marlborough

A big name, yes, but don't let that put you off: this is a properly good New Zealand Sauvignon of real depth and finesse. A delicate, almost transparent appearance betrays the expressive tropical fruit notes on the nose, complete with a secondary stony/flinty character too. The palate is medium-bodied and plush, with more passion fruit and guava characteristics, and rounded off with a lovely taut mineral finish.

2) Olivier Leflaive St Aubin 1er Cru 2011, Le Charmois

If you like your Montrachet but haven't recently won the lottery, a great value alternative is St Aubin. From one of the biggest négociants in Burgundy, this Olivier Leflaive Charmois is a fantastic example of the diversity of Chardonnay in the region's numerous crus. Shy on the nose with notes of toasted fruit and roasted apricot, this wine drinks exceptionally well, with stone fruits and hints of vanilla on the soft, generous palate.

3) Lime Rock Kota Pinot Noir 2010, Hawke's Bay

As New Zealand's prominence in the fine wine world grows, so too does the number of superb offerings from this fantastic wine-growing nation. Situated in the North Island, this Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir from Lime Rock is just one example of why the country's reputation is thoroughly deserved. The wine offers aromas of sweet spice and tea leaf along with a slightly raisined character, and follows through with an abundance of redcurrants on the palate. Top stuff.

4) Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2011, Tuscany

Ornellaia is a relatively young wine producer which is best known for its Super Tuscan wines, the eponymous 'Ornellaia' and their excellent second wine 'Le Serre Nuove'. Their entry-level 'Le Volte' wine is also one that commands great respect, despite it being made in a more approachable, early-drinking style. Merlot-dominated with Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure, Le Volte is immediately recognisable as Italian with its intense plummy, raisiny, grapeskin aromas. The palate is well-balanced and supple, with fine-grained tannins and an intense richness of flavour. Grab a hunk of Parmesan and enjoy!

5) Château Montviel 2004, Pomerol

Yum, yum, yum, yum, yum. Everyone loves a great claret don't they? A fully mature example of a 2004 Pomerol, with an incredibly complex nose of red fruits, creamy oak, dried herbs and cigar box. The palate is equally expressive, with additional flavours of liquorice, cedar and nutskin. Made from 30 year old vines, this is a superbly balanced Bordeaux which you could happily spend an entire evening mulling over. A fabulous, fabulous wine.

Musings on Malbec

First off, apologies to regular readers for the hiatus in posting - I've recently started a new job and am currently a slave to coffee and my bed in my limited spare time! Fear not, however: I thoroughly intend to rectify this distressing lack of blogging with lots of interesting reads in the near future, including tasting notes from an exclusive wine event I shall be attending at the weekend. In the meantime, I thought I'd post a small piece on Malbec: a wine which, for reasons known to higher forces in the universe other than myself, has cropped up a lot recently in my drinking patterns.

If, like me, you're a fan of fuller bodied reds with prominent tannins and concentrated flavours, then Malbec wines should definitely be at the top of your drinking list. Originally grown widely throughout France (where it still features today as part of the 'Bordeaux Six') Malbec is now more commonly associated with Argentina, where the grape has found what seems to be its natural home. As a thick-skinned grape requiring time to ripen, the warmer growing conditions of Argentina are very much suited to Malbec, enabling Argentine producers to make deep, dense varietal wines of great power and aging potential. Below, I have listed three of my current favourite Malbec wines, all of which are drinking well now. If you're not yet accustomed to the grape, there's never been a better time to explore its virtues!


Alamos Malbec 2014, Mendoza

A relatively young example of Malbec with plenty of fragrant blackcurrant and black cherry notes on the nose. On the palate are more dark fruits, coupled with a smooth mouthfeel, well-integrated tannins and a good finish. Perfectly sippable on its own, or try with tomato-based dishes.

Graffigna Centenario Malbec 2012, San Juan

A beautiful deep ruby coloured wine, with a medium nose of blackberries, black fruits, wood, leather and spice. The palate is focused on slightly sweeter, rounder fruits (blueberries, blackcurrant yoghurt) as well as fragrant black pepper and an earthy, bark-like character. Excellent precision and concentration of fruits, with enough depth of flavour to mask the rather high alcohol level.

Viñalba Malbec-Touriga Nacional 2013, Mendoza

A different take on the usual style, this Viñalba wine is in fact a blend of Malbec and Touriga Nacional, the grape better known for the part it plays in Port wines. The Touriga element is immediately evident on the nose: aromas of concentrated black fruits mingle happily with sweet spice and backnotes of violet. On the palate are beautiful raisined fruits along with smooth tannins. In three words: plush, plummy, perfection! Try alongside hard cheeses or red meats.