Drink pink!

Drink pink! After all, is there really any other style of wine to enjoy on Valentine's Day? I did note that some wine outlets were pushing bigger reds like Malbec and Aussie Cabs (presumably for the steak-eaters among us) as well as an array of whites for the Holy Day (because is there ever an event where Kiwi Sauvignon isn't required?). For me, however, this Valentine's required nothing other than rosé Champagne, and it just so happened that I'd found the perfect one for the occasion!

 

 

Hailing from Champagne's Côte des Bar sub-region (that's Pinot Noir country to you and me), the fabulous Oeil de Perdrix Rosé Champagne NV (Majestic, £17.99 on offer) was this year's fizz of choice. The rather unpronounceable name translates into English as 'Eye of the Partridge', and derives from a technique used in the Middle Ages in Champagne, where winemakers would use a gentle pressing of black grapes to create delicately coloured pink wines, akin to the shade of a partridge's eye. As well as imparting a light colour, this pressing method also ensures a delicately flavoured, elegant style of wine.

As per expectations, the Partridge Eye is a faint shade of salmon-pink, with small and persistent bubbles. The nose, too, is dainty and reticent, with strawberry and raspberry tones underpinned by a suggestion of yeastiness, hinting at this particular fizz's Champagne origins. It is on the palate, however, where this Champagne comes to life. Initially refreshing and pleasantly acidic, the wine mellows quickly in the mouth, adopting a smooth, moussey texture which carries with it an array of strawberry and red berry flavours. The autolytic character in this Champagne materialises as creamy rather than bready or yeasty, adding a pleasant strawberries and cream profile to the wine. The wine finishes crisply and cleanly, making it an ideal partner - as all Champagne should be - to oily fish dishes. I found it to be a particularly good match with the salmon burgers I attempted on the 14th.

All in all, the Oeil de Perdrix proved to be an exquisite Champagne for Valentine's Day, and one that shall grace many other occasions in the future. In fact, the only way I think it could be improved upon is with a slightly higher dosage, and leaving the finished wine with higher residual sugar to make it Sec or even Demi-Sec. In my opinion, this would only add to the appeal of the Champagne, as well as making it a crafty little match for a strawberry-based dessert. My better half shared much the same sentiment: "This isn't as sweet as Prosecco!". However, I neglected to tell her that I concurred with her views. It may well have been Valentine's Day, but one cannot simply go around making concessions like that!

Mrs TomOnWine enjoying the Oeil de Perdrix

New year, new blends

Some things in the wine world seem to go together very nicely. Take, for instance, the traditional blend of red grapes in Bordeaux: the harmonious Médoc wines which sing of deep-fruited Cabernet Sauvignon, plush, plummy Merlot and fragrant Cabernet Franc. Consider also the holy trinity in Champagne, with the respective elegance, structure and fruit that Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier each bring to the table. And how could we ignore the many other classic marriages – Syrah and Viognier in Côte-Rôtie, Tempranillo and Grenache in Rioja, or Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz in South Australia, to name but a few?

On the other hand, there are also those untraditional, left field blends about which we wine lovers may be initially sceptical. In my personal experience however, I have found many of these to be surprisingly delightful, like the Marquis de Pennautier Chardonnay Viognier 2014 (Majestic, £7.49 on offer), which marries the two grapes well in a pleasantly fresh and weighty style. Also interestingly different is the Viñas del Vero Luces Blanco 2014 (Tesco, £9 – see my previous thoughts here: http://tomonwine.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/vinas-del-vero-luces-review-tesco-wine.html) which combines Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Macabeo in a lively, exotic wine. Some of these more unusual blends also gain wider recognition and plaudits, such as the incredibly deep and complex Viñalba Malbec-Touriga Nacional 2014 (Majestic, £9.74 on offer), which was one of Decanter magazine’s top 50 wines of 2015.

One such unusual blended wine which I picked up recently was the Estevez Cabernet Carmenère Syrah 2014, from the unstoppable retailer that is Aldi. Given its low price (a shade under a fiver) and its strong provenance (Estevez is a sub-brand of Quinta de Maipo, which in turn is owned by Chilean giants Concha y Toro), it seemed almost rude not to take a punt on this Maule Valley red. And, like my other experiences with the weird and wonderful blends mentioned above, I’m glad I did!

In appearance, the wine is a youthful deep ruby colour, with hints (perhaps poetically) of that pinky, carmine hue I associate with Carmenère. On the nose, liquorous black fruits jump to the fore, supported by backnotes of plum and tobacco leaf. The palate, too, is fruit-forward, with more notes of blackcurrant, plum and black cherry joined by hints of pudding spice. As is the hallmark of good Chilean wines, the Estevez blend is easy drinking, with the added dimension of slightly bitter tannins and a long, plummy finish.

A successful combination, then, of grapes that aren’t commonly associated with each other, and at a very good price. If I had to note one slight criticism of this wine, I would question the addition of Syrah and its role in the blend: I enjoyed the blackcurrant notes on the nose and palate brought by Cabernet, along with the tobacco aromatics and plum plushness typical of Carmenère, but I struggle to understand what Syrah brings to the table. Interestingly, the author of the Wine On Trial blog comments on much the same thing in a recent piece on the wine (http://www.wineontrial.co.uk/estevez-cabernet-carmenere-syrah-aldi/). Ignoring this minor point, Aldi’s Chilean blend proves itself to be an highly enjoyable weekday wine that will appeal to drinkers who love approachable Latin American wines as well as those who enjoy seeking out interesting blends. Which just goes to show that you don’t necessarily need to drink Côte-Rôtie to appreciate the interplay between multiple grape varieties. Although, if you’re offering, I wouldn’t turn a glass down…

Tom's wines of the year 2015

Season's greetings fellow wine lovers! Firstly, my sincerest apologies for the shameful lack of blogging of late (who would've guessed that moving house and being without internet for several months would have been so disruptive to a wine blogger?); therefore I have resolved to put writing more regular postings high on my ever-expanding New Years' resolutions list. In the meantime, I thought I'd share some thoughts with you on my favourite wines of 2015. My scoring is not scientific or aggregated: these are simply wines which I have enjoyed at a given time and place, and would happily part with my own money to drink again. Disclaimer: a number of the wines are available to purchase through Majestic (the aforementioned paying my salary) but I endeavour not to limit my drinking to one particular retailer, and have thus found some absolute beauties at other UK wine merchants. All that remains to say is happy holidays to all, and here's to a happy, healthy and wine-filled 2016!


Asda Extra Special Old Vine Garnacha 2013

 

Being quite partial to a good Garnacha/Grenache, I'm always ready to explore, but even I thought this 'Extra Special' Old Vine Garnacha, bearing its IWSC silver medal and its £5 price tag, was a tad too optimistic. How wrong I was. A phenomenally deep-scented wine, the luscious notes of purple fruit and vanilla carry through seamlessly to the palate, where they are joined by a touch of leathery spice on the finish. Regardless of the price (and I'd still love it at double the money), this is an extraordinarily good buy from Asda's brilliant flagship range.

Cave de Buxy, Montagny 1er Cru 'Les Millières' 2010

 

Okay, okay, so I know the Montagny appellation in Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise isn't the area's most prestigious, but when the wine is this good, I couldn't give a hoot. Coming from the Premier Cru climat 'Les Millières and made by one of the region's most reliable co-operatives, Vignerons de Buxy, this wine is all about elegance and that touch of class. With a gentle nose of apricots and peaches, along with more soft stone and orchard fruits on the palate, this wine really expresses the area's terroir to perfection, as Chardonnay is so prone to doing when handled with care.


Brancott Estate Terroir Series Sauvignon Blanc 2013

I was sent both the Brancott Estate Terroir Series Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc to review earlier in the year, and although the former was very enjoyable and well crafted, it is the Sauvignon that has remained in my mind. Using descriptors like 'precise' and 'minerally' doesn't really seem to do this wine justice - the acidity is so laser sharp and the fruits so well-defined that Brancott's Terroir Series Sauvignon succeeds in standing out in a very competitive and crowded field. If you prefer your Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé to your Marlborough Sauvignon, give this one a go: I guarantee it'll give you something to think about.


Viñalba Malbec-Touriga Nacional 2013

The year is 2015 and Mendoza Malbec continues unrivalled on its quest for wine world domination: how could I not include this incredible effort from Viñalba in my top wines of the year? Initially sceptical about the blend, I'm extremely happy to report that the wine disproved my misgivings: the two marry very well together. The Port grape Touriga is most evident on the nose, which is heavily scented with alcoholic black fruits, sweet and earthy spices and backnotes of violet; whereas the raisined fruits and polished tannins on the palate betray the Malbec in the blend. An exquisite wine which would improve any cosy, quiet night in front of the fire. Oh, and Decanter magazine agree with me too - recently naming it one of their star wines of 2015. Cheers!

Farewell to the Tesco Wine Community

Recently I received the rather sad news that the Tesco Wine Community website, of which I had been a member, was to be closed down. Although not entirely unexpected given the current belt-tightening exercises being carried out in the UK retail sector, it was nevertheless disappointing to hear that such a lively and popular wine forum was to be no more. Personal highlights for me include being nominated as Member of the Month in March 2015 and carrying out a subsequent case review of Oxford Landing's current offerings, as well as being involved in panel tastings for brands including Beronia, Brancott Estate and Cono Sur. However, as the old adage goes, all good things must come to an end, and I feel that I have truly benefitted from the knowledge and enthusiasm of others in the Wine Community; many of whom I shall continue to connect with online.

 

As a leaving present, Tesco Wines very generously sent a bottle of Sancerre from their Finest range, which was an excellent tribute to the closing of the online community. After tasting it and thoroughly enjoying its finesse and classicism, I went online to check the price (I know, I know, bad manners and all that) and was amazed to discover it retailing at just under a tenner a bottle. Although the UK Sauvignon market is pretty much dominated by Marlborough producers nowadays, with Sancerre at such a good price it's worth rediscovering the classic French region to remind yourself of the grape's diversity.

Paler and with a slightly more greenish tinge than its Kiwi relatives, this Sancerre had a beguiling nose of citrus fruits and white flower aromas, with both ripe and candied lemon present. The palate was typically refreshing, but the high acidity was countered with upfront fruit comprising lemon, grapefruit and sour apricot, with just the faintest suggestion of the herbal, grassy notes that are so evident in New Zealand Sauvignon. On the whole, I found the Finest Sancerre to be classy, well-balanced and mouthwateringly moreish. I enjoyed it alongside a mild chicken curry dish, which was a fairly good match, but I think baked white fish or even as an apéritif would be ideal.

A fitting send off then, to the Tesco Wine Community: enjoying one of the company's flagship wines produced and bottled under their own label, offering a great example of its type and at a very reasonable price. Adieu!

Vive la (Gewurztraminer) Révolution!

Due to its sheer popularity and dominance on our supermarket shelves, occasionally I yearn to escape the all-encompassing world of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not that I have anything against New Zealand or indeed the fabulous expressions of the grape it produces – far from it – but sometimes it’s just nice to get away from the norm. If, like me, you hanker after a New Zealand Sauvignon rebellion, then there are very few wines which would be further from than the style than Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Although often likened to one another for their pronounced aromatics (indeed, with typical examples, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc wines should be among the easiest for wine students to pick out in a blind tasting), the similarities stop there: while Sauvignon Blanc produces wines with tropical and citrus aromas and crisp acidity, Gewurztraminer often produces wines which are off-dry, low in acidity and exotically flavoured, with typical nuances of rosewater and lychee. The prefix ‘Gewürz’, after all, means ‘spiced’ or ‘perfumed’ in German.

Another primary difference between the grapes is preferred growing regions. Whereas Sauvignon Blanc can make superb wines in its spiritual home of the Loire Valley and its ‘new classic’ region of Marlborough, as well as other premium cool climate sites in the New World, Gewurztraminer seems to be rather more picky in selecting its growing location. Although decent efforts are made in Germany and the USA, nowhere really beats the French region of Alsace for Gewurztraminer wines of distinction and complexity.

One such Gewurz I tried recently is the Kuhlmann-Platz Gewurztraminer 2013 from Alsace’s first and largest co-operative, Cave de Hunawihr. Elegantly bottled in true Germanic fashion, the wine is actually fairly muted on the nose for Gewurz: hints of citrus fruits and stone fruits emanate from the glass, as well as a touch of ginger spice, but overall the wine is a little reticent on approach. However, this fleeting sense of disappointment is quickly rectified on the palate, where the wine explodes into a symphony of Turkish Delight, rose petal, lychee and honeyed melon; all supported by a comforting blanket of sweetness and sufficient acidity to keep things fresh. As with all medium-dry whites, spiced Asian dishes and soft ripe cheeses work a treat: specifically, I found the Hunawihr Gewurz to be a perfect match to Malaysian Chicken curry.

Although an exuberantly fruity and edgily-different wine, admittedly the Hunawihr Gewurztraminer not one that will tempt Marlborough Sauvignon lovers away from their glasses of Brancott or Villa Maria. For the contemplative wine lover, however, it will succeed in providing a delightful if temporary distraction from New World Sauvignon. My advice is to enjoy a glass now and to savour its lingering, sweetly spiced succulence, before quickly reaching for the bottle of Oyster Bay.

Tom reviews the world's best Chardonnay!... almost

I was recently in the beautiful Lincolnshire market town of Grantham and wandered into a local branch of M&S Food. As all wine addicts will know, the default thing to do when one enters such an establishment is to head straight for the wine section for quick foray. As I was absent-mindedly browsing M&S' (rather impressive) range, my eye was drawn to the bottles of their own-label Mâcon-Villages standing proudly on the top shelf. Remembering that this was the very wine that was recently crowned Decanter magazine's Best Chardonnay Under £15, I promptly bought a bottle to see for myself whether the £10 Mâcon was deserving of the title. On arriving home - much to my annoyance and also slight amusement - it transpired that I had actually bought the 2013 vintage, as opposed to the 2014 which had scooped such high praise. Undeterred in my quest for excellent Chardonnay, I persevered and proceeded to try the wine regardless.

 

And what a wine it was too. Produced for M&S by the Mâcon co-operative Vignerons des Grandes Vignes, the wine is selected and blended from specific cuvées within the Mâcon-Villages appellation. A medium lemon-coloured wine, its aromas were immediately expressive of everything that great Mâcon-Villages should be: crisp citrus tones mingling with stone fruits, coupled with a beautiful florality and minerality. I found the nectarine and white peach notes to be slightly honeyed too, almost reminiscent of a good Chenin, which I put down to the additional year that the wine spent in bottle. On the palate were more pure lemon and peach fruits, joined with a suggestion of green apple. Although unoaked (you can relax now, ABC clan) the wine's mouthfeel was smooth and plush: evidence, I am sure, of malolactic fermentation. The finish, too, was pleasant and lingering, with the mineral flavours remaining on the palate long after the wine's disappearance. 

After cocking up with the vintage, I felt justified in choosing M&S' Mâcon-Villages to taste, as it was a brilliant expression of Mâcon terroir, as well as an excellent ambassador for classic Old World Chardonnay. Not that I was the only person to have enjoyed the wine: writer Ned Halley in 'The Best Wines in the Supermarkets' found the wine to be "lively, leesy and [a] lush authentic regional unoaked Chardonnay". Furthermore, the wine also confirmed my belief about drinking Mâcon-Villages a few years after the vintage. Aside from the basic Mâcon blanc which is best drunk as young as possible, there is no reason why Mâcon-Villages and named village wines can't be enjoyed for up to five years after their conception, as the best will retain their fruit and develop honeyed nuances in the bottle, as I found here. 

 

So although I failed miserably in my efforts to review the world's best sub-£15 Chardonnay, I have managed to stumble across a brilliant little wine which is incredibly hard to fault at a tenner. All that remains now is to try its younger sibling to see how it compares. If it truly is better than the 2013, it promises to be an absolute belter.