60 Second Wine Reviews: Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2015

Seeing the name 'Guigal' on a bottle of wine is a reassuring sight for consumers. It's akin to a guarantee of authenticity; a mark of high standards. Much the same as if you'd bought your foodstuffs from Waitrose, or your car from a Mercedes dealership: the consumer is buying an expectation of quality as much as they are the product itself. Comparisons can be drawn in the wine world too: Latour and Jadot perform exactly the same function in Burgundy, as does Dourthe in Bordeaux, Santa Rita in Chile and Bodegas Fabre in Argentina. 

The question might reasonably posed: why, then, bother to assess such wines at all? Well, for starters, half the fun of reviewing wine is enjoyment, and these producers are certain to provide that. But secondly, and more importantly, these producers provide the benchmark for many others in their regions. If the crème de la crème of the Rhône valley is underperforming, a void is left at the top of the pyramid, and the overall quality of the region's wines will suffer as a result.

Fortunately, this is not the case for this particular crème, Guigal, as evidenced by their 2015 Côtes du Rhône Blanc. At almost two-thirds Viognier, the quality of this Southern Rhône white blend is immediately apparent, with its supporting cast of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc. A beautiful golden lemon colour in glass, the nose is classic white Rhône: white peach, acacia and pear immediately come to the fore, supported by a slightly cereal/leesy character in the background. The palate, too, is typical: medium to full-bodied and lowish acidity, with similar stone fruits and floral flavours coming through. Everything is balanced and well-defined, with an impressive finish for a basic CDR Blanc. My only mild criticism is that it's not as opulent or textural as some of my favourite whites from the Rhône Valley. Having said that, if you want excitement, you buy an Alfa Romeo. If you want assured efficiency and competence, you buy a Merc. The Guigal CDR Blanc is most certainly the latter.

Tom's Rating: A well-made and typical - if not exhilarating - Côtes du Rhône Blanc. A must-have fridge standby for an array of dishes.

Available at: various, £10

60 Second Wine Reviews: Château Phélan Ségur 2010

The market for the red wines of Bordeaux is fascinating. Rather unlike its stuffy, conservative image, the modern trade in Claret is marked by a fast-paced dynamism. The classification of 1855 is slowly being eroded: what was once a reliable guide of quality and price is being royally trampled on by upwardly-mobile châteaux, eager to produce the best wines possible in the various communes and terroirs. The upside is that Claret lovers have never had it so good. The downside? Aside from there no longer being a reliable 'league table' of quality, pricing - to the casual observer - now seems something of a mystery.

Take today's wine: Château Phélan Ségur from the fabled 2010 vintage. Phélan Ségur in 1855 missed out on its chance for 'cru classé' status: the honours instead going to its St-Estèphe neighbours, Calon Ségur (3rd growth) and Montrose (2nd growth). Whilst Phélan doesn't quite attain the prices of its counterparts, it nevertheless far outstrips the market price of many classed growths, and is a prime example of the mildly ludicrous situation of having a 162 year old classification still in operation.

Politics aside, the 2010 Phélan Ségur is an absolute belter. A deep ruby in glass, the nose is at once generous yet tightly coiled: I scribbled down blackcurrant, plum, pudding spice and hints of pencil lead. After decanting, something resembling five spice made it onto my jotter pad too. In the mouth, the wine is incredibly full and powerful, with the rich, unctuous fruit perfectly framed by the acidity and tannic structure. Truly, this is a wine that either requires many more years in bottle, or a cut of rare sirloin. I'm impatient; I opted for the latter.

Tom's Rating: Legendary US wine critic Robert Parker called the 2010 Phélan "a major sleeper of the vintage". For my money, it needs a bit more of a lie-in before truly coming to life. Still delicious though.

Available at: various, £50