In itself, drinking more wines from France's Rhône valley is no bad thing; I for one am certainly guilty of overlooking the vast array of wines from that part of the world on the supermarket shelves in search of something a little less mainstream. Yet, to do so means I miss out on some real top quality wines with winemaking know-how and pedigree. One of the Rhône's key points of difference, and also its Achilles heel, is that its basic 'Côtes du Rhône' appellation wines can vary wildly in quality and style. The best producers make excellent use of the region's quality grape varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), either using traditional vinification or Carbonic Maceration as well as being judicious with their use of oak. The worst producers, and they are sadly numerous, produce dilute, thin, overcropped wines which lack any character or sense of place. Thus, although it pains me to hear the words "I don't like Côtes du Rhône", I've tasted enough poor wines to understand why some make such sweeping statements.
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| E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011 |
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| Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône Villages 2014 |
Happily, two of the most recent Rhône reds that I've sampled both re-affirmed my faith in the style, coming as they did from two of the region's best names. Both the Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011 (Majestic, £9.99 on offer) and Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Cotes du Rhone Villages 2014, made by Chapoutier (£7 from the supermarket) are well-made, classically flavoured Rhône reds which provide all the warming fruit and spice which is evidently required for the British Summertime.
Let's kick off with the Guigal, arguably the most famous name in the Rhône valley and whose marque is a byword for quality and typicity. In fact, if you ever get the chance to try their Condrieu, do so - it's a deft match for your Christmas turkey. Based at Château d'Ampuis in the Côte Rôtie in Northern Rhône, the House of Guigal is behind some of the region's most fabulously expensive wines, yet they never neglect their lesser appellation wines from both the North and South of the Rhône valley. The care and attention that they invest in their wines is reflected by their Côtes du Rhône's vintage: I'm reviewing the 2011 and their 2012 is currently on the market, whilst most producers are hurrying to release their 2015s. This patience and care to release their wines after extended aging displays confidence in their wines' quality, as well as their determination to offer the wine at its peak drinking time. Unusually for Côtes du Rhône wines (but not necessarily for Guigal) their 2011 is Syrah dominant, in a ratio of 60-35 with Grenache, accompanied by a splash of Mourvèdre at 5%. Always well-received by critics, Decanter magazine recently named Guigal's 2012 in their top 50 Best Value Rhône reds, applauding the wine's "poised and polished" nature.
I would certainly echo those sentiments having tasted the 2011, which I found to have a reassuringly traditional feel. Just starting to show signs of development in glass, the wine is a mid-depth ruby at the core with a garnet rim. On the nose, wonderful yet vaguely restrained aromas of blackcurrant and baked plum come to the fore, with supporting notes of clove and black pepper. The fruits on the palate are classical CdR - more blackcurrants, plums and pepper - with still-lively acidity and tannins that are just ever-so-slightly drying out. The finish is excellent and lingers long on the palate (20 seconds by my count) which only serves to re-inforce the notion that the wine is carefully and lovingly crafted. Overall, with its distinctively 'Old World' nature of understated fruit and classy structure, the Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2011 proved to be a highly enjoyable wine and another tick in the box for this ever-reliable producer.
If the Guigal is reined-in and traditional, the Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône Villages is altogether more modern and slinky in style. Made for the UK supermarket by the Chapoutier family, who are based in the village of Tain-l'Hermitage in the Northern Rhône, the wine - much like the Guigal - again comes from a producer of great repute. Maison Chapoutier makes wines at every level of the Rhône's appellation system, and has expanded its horizons further with ventures in Alsace, Roussillon, Portugal and Australia. Their wines are often highly scored by critics, and their 2013 effort for Sainsbury's was lauded as having "wholesome appeal with proper Côtes du Rhône spice and verve" by Ned Halley in 'The Best Wines in the Supermarkets'.
Abstract nouns aside, I cannot help but agree with Halley's comments: the TtD CdRV definitely scores highly in the likeability stakes. With a more upfront nose than the Guigal, the aromas are dominated by a mix of squashy purple fruits and new oak, with just a hint of that Côtes du Rhône black pepper poking through. The palate is medium-bodied and suave, with the tannins and acidity tempered well by the oak influence. The flavours are once again typical for the style, with the well-defined blackcurrant, plum and pepper notes justifying the 'Villages' suffix in the title. The finish lingers nicely, albeit for not as long as the Guigal. A very good match for stews and casseroles, the TtD CdRV is very much made for enjoying now, with the slight lack of fruit concentration denying it much prospect of graceful aging.
After tasting the two wines, I can safely say that both are excellent examples of two different styles of Côtes du Rhône which both excel in displaying their merits. The Guigal appeals if you like traditional, unassuming Old World style reds, and with its early development it could be a canny match for mellow, slow cooked stews; whereas the Chapoutier-made Sainsbury's wine would better suit those whose palates demand riper, fruitier wines, and who are looking for a wine to match more robustly-flavoured dishes. Regardless of your preference, either would succeed in converting those Rhône doubters and both would merit a place in your shopping basket, ready to crack open at any moment during the long, unpredicatble Summer ahead of us.
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P.S. As I'm sitting here writing, the mercury in the West Midlands is pushing 30C. I'll start making room for the whites in the fridge...
