Beronia Dos Maderas Reserva review - Tesco Wine

Recently I was fortunate enough to be selected for a Tesco Wine Community Taste Panel for the Beronia 'Dos Maderas' Rioja Reserva 2009. Below is my review of the wine, as well as some thoughts on food matching and aging potential. Enjoy!

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From the small town of Ollauri in the heart of Rioja Alta comes the wine on review today, the Beronia ‘Dos Maderas’ Rioja Reserva 2009. The name Beronia hails from the Celtic tribe who inhabited Northern Spain in the 3^rd century BC, known as the Berones. Yet, despite the name’s ancient origins, the Beronia winery was founded just over 40 years ago, and is therefore still a relative newcomer in the Rioja wine scene. Bodegas Beronia was set up in 1973 by four friends and gastronomic enthusiasts, hoping to make wines in order to pair with their dishes. Today, headed by their chief winemaker Matias Calleja, Beronia is something of a pioneering winery in the region: it was the first bodega in Rioja to market single varietal wines, as well as the first to make use of Dos Maderas (two types of oak) which help give a distinctive and memorable feel to their creations.

The Beronia Reserva 2009 is one such creation. The 2009 growing season was a very good one: although much of Rioja experienced searingly high temperatures in the summer, good rainfall later in the season saved the day and produced a formidable vintage. For their 2009 Reserva, Beronia blended 94% Tempranillo grapes with a dash each of Graciano and Mazuelo, before aging for 20 months in their signature blend of French and American oak barrels. According to Beronia, the French oak imparts spicy aromas to their wines, while the American oak contributes the softer vanilla and coconut nuances.

The wine itself is a medium intensity purpley-ruby colour, with a fairly intense nose of dark fruits and oak-derived flavours: blackcurrant, blackberry and plum mingle happily with nuances of vanilla and toasty cedar. Intriguingly, the nose is not showing as much development as other Reservas I’ve sampled from the same vintage, which points to a long and elegant potential aging period for the Beronia. This initial assumption was swiftly backed up by the wine’s structure: the good levels of tannin and acidity mean that the Beronia could be cellared quite happily for another decade, with earthy, raisined notes sure to follow the supple fruit and vanilla already present.

At the heart of Beronia’s philosophy is the consideration that their wines should always pair well with food, and happily this is indeed the case for the Dos Maderas Reserva. The wine matches perfectly with all types of traditional Spanish fare, including jamón ibérico, manchego, olives and other tapas, but the darker, duskier nature of the fruits mean that the wine would also go well with venison and game dishes. Whether you choose to enjoy it with friends alongside food or simply savour its delights on its own, it is clear that Beronia have succeeded in producing a stunningly good Rioja. ¡Salud!

Keeping it in the family

Okay, hands up - who here remembers the jazz funk stylings of English pop group Level 42 in the 80s and 90s? Silly question, of course you do. For those of you who've had a temporary memory lapse however, here's a video of the band in action at the 2010 Estival Jazz Festival playing their 1987 hit single 'Running in the Family':

(Don't you just love that slap bass?!)

Aside from looking for an excuse to listen to Level 42, I mention this specific track because - as so often happens when one is chewing over a nice glass of red - coincidence and inspiration seem to spring from nowhere. As I was sitting on the sofa listening to Running in the Family and relaxing with a glass of Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Merlot 2013, it occurred to me that the song choice was quite apt. As one of Chile's largest and most established wine producers, Luis Felipe Edwards produces a vast array of wines and styles, ranging from their classic varietal labels to their more premium single vineyard offerings. Their Gran Reserva range, however, is something else: a selection of nine award-winning varietal wines from premium growing areas, the LFE Gran Reservas are not only sold to customers, but are also retained in the family's private cellars for special occasions. After drinking and loving the Merlot (£7.99 from Majestic Wines), I went out the following day and snapped up the Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2014 (same price, same retailer) which was equally, if not more, impressive.

Firstly to the Merlot, which hails from the premium growing region of Colchagua Valley, perhaps better known for its big-hitting Cabernet and Carmenère-based wines. Unlike in Spain, the 'Gran Reserva' designation carries no legal definition in Chile, but LFE use the tag here to denote that the wine has spent a short period of maturation in oak (as well as signifying that the wine is good enough for private cellaring). This Gran Reserva Merlot has spent 12 months in 30% new oak, so although it is a young vintage, the wine has a sense of fullness and tannic integration that you'd expect from a more mature wine. On the nose are notes of plum and blackcurrant, along with a touch of sweet cocoa and wood spice in the background. These flavours largely follow through onto the palate, although the fruits take on a more concentrated, slightly baked edge in the mouth. Medium-bodied with food-friendly acidity and balanced tannins, this is an elevated Chilean Merlot with a real sense of finesse, which at the same time remains faithful to the grape.

Previous readers of my blog will know of my disdain for the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club and its rejection of one of the world's finest and most versatile white grape varieties. Thus, whenever I come across a beautifully full and oaky expression of the grape, my inner wine conscience feels a smug sense of satisfaction at those who miss out on such exquisite wines in the name of ephemeral fashion. Perhaps if the ABC clique had tried skilfully oaked wines like the LFE Gran Reserva Chardonnay, there would be no need for such an unnecessary grouping. Made from grapes grown in the Casablanca Valley - the Chilean cool-climate growing region - this beautifully gold-coloured Chardonnay has spent 3 months in oak barrels, giving subtle notes of creaminess to the wine as well as plumping out the texture. The nose is highly aromatic for a Chardonnay (think mango, passion fruit, melon and cream) which leads onto a welcoming palate of vanilla, butter and more tropical fruits. The palate structure is attractively complex, with the soft, oily mouthfeel concealing the crisp, saline-laced finish and the rather high alcohol content (14% abv). As such, the wine is perfectly suited to all manner of creamy chicken dishes, as well as chasing away hordes of anti-Chardonnay heathens.

So, from Chile's largest family-owned wine producer comes two very good Family Selection wines from a family of nine varietals available. The LFE Gran Reserva Merlot and Chardonnay are great examples of classic Old World grape varieties which have truly found new homes in Chile's up-and-coming premium wine regions. Just don't forget to tell your friends - these wines are too good to be kept solely in the family! ;-)